"Knees weak, eyes streaming, armpits sweating", I think Eminem wrote... obviously when he was last in Lhasa! It's a trifecta of evils, the smoking, the exhaust fumes and now the incense burning on every corner, coupled with the altitude and a distinct lack of oxygen, my throat is on shutdown until my lungs re open for business.
The place however, so far, is why I came to China, it has character, identity and history, plus the weather isn't too bad either, although my fleece, borrowed from Josephs amazing dream coat wardrobe, is getting attention.
The Chinese have a tight stranglehold on Tibet and seem to be suffocating every last bit of individuality and identity from it by cocking it's proverbial leg and marking it's territory in the form of huge glass buildings with big red flags, anniversary notifications of 60 years of 'occupation', China bank, China Air, China Mobile and the very obvious presence of the military fully armed and ready for any prayer wheel, yielding monk to attack. It's certainly not the Lhasa that Hillary and Norgay experienced.
At the risk of being deported or shot or something I think China need to back off, ship out and let Tibet do it's thing.
On our itinerary today is the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor markets and the Sera Monastery, what wasn't was three hours trying to find a flight out as we cannot overstay our permit as they will remove our teeth and fingernails, we are still in Limbo.
The Jokhang temple is 1400 years old and for once actually looks it, it is a shrine to all that is Buddhism and they come in their droves to pray, prostrate themselves and make offerings to the many, many, many Budhhas, the place is authentic, if you are over 6" you are officially in the incense smog zone, underfoot is like an ice rink as people come and offer Yaks butter and it's everywhere, on the walls, in the candles and on the stairs. Where there isn't butter there is money, notes everywhere, in cracks, on the shrines on the floors and lots of it...Buddhism is big business.
Around the temple are the markets mainly aimed at the locals but also more and more catering to the tourists, it's here you can snap up your prayer wheels, Yak fur jacket and some amazing local art, you can also get every last bit of climbing gear should you wish to conquer Mt Qomolangma ( look it up) I'm talking full Gortex ski jackets by North Face or Mountain Equpiment for $25, and that's before bartering!
Lunch was taken at the new Mandela restaurant over looking the Barkhor and watching the Chinese military in their rooftop positions, fall asleep in the midday sun.
The sera monastery is the second largest in Tibet at around 4 acres, it's main claims to fame are the exorbitant entry price (see big business), the amazing sand mandelas ( see photos, if we ever get to load them again) and every afternoon the Monks congregate in the courtyard for very eclectic and animated debating sessions, they do this en-mass and the Monk in charge is the Master.... run with it.
Evening to ourselves we perused the Market and bought trinkets for the budding Buddhists back home ( you know who you are),I am dining on Yak Momo's, Ais had Spaghetti Carbonara- in Tibet, an Italian dish, in Tibet.
Still no flights out, the orange pyjamas and buzz cut are drawing in!
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